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	<updated>2026-10-29T20:33:50Z</updated>
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	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1115</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1115"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T06:45:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Gas Masks Do Not Block 100% of Vapor */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, these filters are also designed to block some of the chemical air getting through (see the notes below).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use work outdoors, or use a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over a Respirator than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. In some cases the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will block some of the vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can seperate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks Do Not Block 100% of Vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all (organic / acid gas) vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you will be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day on weekends over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also means, that if you were in a riot situation, and you had a mask, and there was tear gas, that you would be incorrect if you thought that the gas mask was protecting you 100% from the gas. This is not the case. The noxious gas is still damaging your lungs, but doing so below the threshold that you can tell. The natural lung pain reflex is blocked. At least with the masks that I have used. This also means that in a true war situation, that gas masks probably won't work 100%.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For a 9-5 shop, I would recommend either a positive pressure air hose setup (requires a long hose to a mask) (i.e. Grade D breathing air), or an oxygen concentrator and a SCBA setup (portable, can be done with relatively small oxygen tanks). Though I do not yet have personal experience with these setups as of yet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1114</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1114"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:23:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Safety Goggles Fit Better Over a Respirator Than Glasses */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, these filters are also designed to block some of the chemical air getting through (see the notes below).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use work outdoors, or use a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over a Respirator than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. In some cases the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will block some of the vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can seperate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks Do Not Block 100% of Vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all (organic / acid gas) vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you will be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day on weekends over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also means, that if you were in a riot situation, and you had a mask, and there was tear gas, that you would be incorrect if you thought that the gas mask was protecting you 100% from the gas. This is not the case. The noxious gas is still damaging your lungs, but doing so below the threshold that you can tell. The natural lung pain reflex is blocked. At least with the masks that I have used. This also means that in a true war situation, that gas masks probably won't work 100%.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For a 9-5 shop, I would recommend either a positive pressure air hose setup (requires a long hose to a mask), or an oxygen concentrator and a SCBA setup (portable, can be done with relatively small oxygen tanks). Though I do not yet have personal experience with these setups as of yet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1113</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1113"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:22:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, these filters are also designed to block some of the chemical air getting through (see the notes below).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use work outdoors, or use a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over a Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. In some cases the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will block some of the vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can seperate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks Do Not Block 100% of Vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all (organic / acid gas) vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you will be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day on weekends over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also means, that if you were in a riot situation, and you had a mask, and there was tear gas, that you would be incorrect if you thought that the gas mask was protecting you 100% from the gas. This is not the case. The noxious gas is still damaging your lungs, but doing so below the threshold that you can tell. The natural lung pain reflex is blocked. At least with the masks that I have used. This also means that in a true war situation, that gas masks probably won't work 100%.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For a 9-5 shop, I would recommend either a positive pressure air hose setup (requires a long hose to a mask), or an oxygen concentrator and a SCBA setup (portable, can be done with relatively small oxygen tanks). Though I do not yet have personal experience with these setups as of yet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1112</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1112"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:22:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, these filters are also designed to block some of the chemical air getting through (see the notes below).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use work outdoors, or use a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. In some cases the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will block some of the vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can seperate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks Do Not Block 100% of Vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all (organic / acid gas) vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you will be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day on weekends over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also means, that if you were in a riot situation, and you had a mask, and there was tear gas, that you would be incorrect if you thought that the gas mask was protecting you 100% from the gas. This is not the case. The noxious gas is still damaging your lungs, but doing so below the threshold that you can tell. The natural lung pain reflex is blocked. At least with the masks that I have used. This also means that in a true war situation, that gas masks probably won't work 100%.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For a 9-5 shop, I would recommend either a positive pressure air hose setup (requires a long hose to a mask), or an oxygen concentrator and a SCBA setup (portable, can be done with relatively small oxygen tanks). Though I do not yet have personal experience with these setups as of yet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1111</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1111"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:22:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, these filters are also designed to block some of the chemical air getting through (see the notes below).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use work outdoors, or use a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. In some cases the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will block some of the vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can seperate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all (organic / acid gas) vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you will be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day on weekends over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also means, that if you were in a riot situation, and you had a mask, and there was tear gas, that you would be incorrect if you thought that the gas mask was protecting you 100% from the gas. This is not the case. The noxious gas is still damaging your lungs, but doing so below the threshold that you can tell. The natural lung pain reflex is blocked. At least with the masks that I have used. This also means that in a true war situation, that gas masks probably won't work 100%.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For a 9-5 shop, I would recommend either a positive pressure air hose setup (requires a long hose to a mask), or an oxygen concentrator and a SCBA setup (portable, can be done with relatively small oxygen tanks). Though I do not yet have personal experience with these setups as of yet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1110</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1110"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:16:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, the organic vapours filter will block some of the resin fumes from getting through to your lungs, and the acid gas aspect of the filter filter may block some of the MEKP fumes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use a fan to direct air away, or a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses you might find at the big box hardware stores. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. Usually the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will protect you from breathing vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can separate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all (organic / acid gas) vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you may be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day a week over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This also means, that if you were in a riot situation, and you had a mask, and there was tear gas, that you would be incorrect if you thought that the gas mask was protecting you 100% from the gas. This is not the case. The noxious gas is still damaging your lungs, but doing so below the threshold that you can tell. The natural lung pain reflex is blocked. At least with the masks that I have used. This also means that in a true war situation, that gas masks probably won't work 100%.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For a 9-5 shop, I would recommend either a positive pressure air hose setup (requires a long hose to a mask), or an oxygen concentrator and a SCBA setup (portable, can be done with relatively small oxygen tanks). Though I do not yet have personal experience with these setups as of yet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1109</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1109"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:05:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, the organic vapours filter will block some of the resin fumes from getting through to your lungs, and the acid gas aspect of the filter filter may block some of the MEKP fumes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use a fan to direct air away, or a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses you might find at the big box hardware stores. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. Usually the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will protect you from breathing vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can separate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you may be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day a week over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1108</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1108"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:05:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, the organic vapours filter will block some of the resin fumes from getting through to your lungs, and the acid gas aspect of the filter filter may block some of the MEKP fumes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use a fan to direct air away, or a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses you might find at the big box hardware stores. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. Usually the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will protect you from breathing vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can separate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you may be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day a week over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters. There is some info here: https://www.osha.gov/etools/respiratory-protection As well as in the Moldex instructions: web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/instructions/7000-instruction-manual.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1107</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1107"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:01:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, the organic vapours filter will block some of the resin fumes from getting through to your lungs, and the acid gas aspect of the filter filter may block some of the MEKP fumes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use a fan to direct air away, or a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses you might find at the big box hardware stores. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. Usually the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will protect you from breathing vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can separate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you may be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day a week over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for how often to change the filters.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1106</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1106"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T05:00:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Get the Right Filters for your Application */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, the organic vapours filter will block some of the resin fumes from getting through to your lungs, and the acid gas aspect of the filter filter may block some of the MEKP fumes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use a fan to direct air away, or a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses you might find at the big box hardware stores. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. Usually the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will protect you from breathing vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can separate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;br /&gt;
====Gas Masks do not block 100% of vapor====&lt;br /&gt;
These particular respirators (or gas masks) do not block all vapors. You may have a false sense of security thinking that you are protected but this is not the case. For full breathing protection, you will need a seperate air supply. If you only work with casting resins a handful of times, you may be fine to skip advanced breathing protection, but on the other hand, if you are working with these on a regular basis, then you should consider doing something additional. I am referring to the actual casting of the resin. As for working with the cured parts, such as sanding or grinding, I don't have enough experience there to make a call, but I would assume it is similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It all depends upon how much you are using these materials. If you are working 9-5 in a resin shop, or even if it's one day a week over years you may see some damage if you are exposed to the resin and don't wear any protection (or even just a respirator). Note that the curing resin seems to be the most noxious (once you have added MEKP). Base resin without MEKP or catalyst added is a bit easier to deal with.&lt;br /&gt;
====Change Mask Filters on a Regular Basis====&lt;br /&gt;
This goes with the previous recommendation. It's to be assumed that older filters will not work as well as newer ones. You can write the day, month, and year on each filter with a marker to keep track.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1105</id>
		<title>Respirator</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Respirator&amp;diff=1105"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T04:48:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A good respirator with filters specifically for Organic Vapours will make working with these chemicals easier. Note that this is more than just a particulate filter, the organic vapours filter will block some of the resin fumes from getting through to your lungs, and the acid gas aspect of the filter filter may block some of the MEKP fumes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that some fumes will still get through the filter, and these particular respirators only help. You may also want to use a fan to direct air away, or a more advanced air supply if you work with chemicals regularly.&lt;br /&gt;
{{Template:BreathingProtection}}&lt;br /&gt;
===Tips/Techniques===&lt;br /&gt;
====Safety Goggles Fit Better Over A Respirator Than Glasses====&lt;br /&gt;
These respirators, while very good, are not designed for use with traditional safety glasses you might find at the big box hardware stores. The seal around the cheeks and nose may cause a slightly off fit (depending on the glasses of course). This means that there is more of an opening for debris to get into your eyes. Usually the glasses are offset slightly high, causing the bottom opening to be unacceptably large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the page on [[Safety Goggles]] for more details on the proper Goggles to purchase.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Goggles are Often Necessary Protection as Well====&lt;br /&gt;
A proper gas mask will protect you from breathing vapours, but consider that your eyes are also vulnerable to noxious gases, or especially splashing (from chemicals such as [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]]). You can either purchase a gas mask + goggle combination where they are all one piece or you can separate them out in a modular fashion (which I prefer) so the goggles can be replaced if they get scratched. The benefit of using goggles is that they don't generally need any ventilation, so they can have a rubber seal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So not only do goggles fit better around the respirator, but they may be necessary, if there are any strong vapours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Get the Right Filters for your Application====&lt;br /&gt;
Respirators, are a must get for working with chemicals. There are a few different filters that cover 'organic vapours'. This particular one (#7300) also covers acid gas, so it will help block some noxious acid gases (such as MEKP). For more information about different filters to purchase, see something like the [https://web.archive.org/web/https://www.moldex.com/pdf/datasheets/chemicalselectionguide.pdf Chemical Compatibility Chart]  which details what filters are applicable for what chemicals.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Safety&amp;diff=1104</id>
		<title>Safety</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Safety&amp;diff=1104"/>
		<updated>2026-10-19T04:46:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Safety Equipment */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Here are some notes with regards to safety and the products we sell. In general, you want to protect your Eyes, Ears, and Lungs when working with any tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety Equipment==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Safety Goggles]] &lt;br /&gt;
* [[Respirator]] - Strongly Recommended.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Generally Hazardous Products==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Acetone]] - flammable&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide]] - flammable, corrosive, hazardous to humans. Avoid skin contact.&lt;br /&gt;
* All resins are flammable, and will burn for a long time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Tips==&lt;br /&gt;
* Urethaning or application of resin should be done with a [[Respirator]] w/organic filters.&lt;br /&gt;
* You will want an adequate supply of disposable gloves, rags, and acetone.&lt;br /&gt;
* Glass fibers can be hazardous when sanding. Work in an appropriate area, w/proper mask and ventilation.&lt;br /&gt;
* It's nice to have multiple pairs of either goggles / glasses (I keep one of both) as when one gets foggy you can swap to the other one.&lt;br /&gt;
* The proper way to put out a resin fire is with CO2, or sand. Do not put water on a resin fire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Resources==&lt;br /&gt;
===Epoxy Resin===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
No Escape: Dangers of Confined Spaces - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeaX0IRjyd8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://www.csb.gov/videos/no-escape-dangers-of-confined-spaces/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this video by the United States Chemical Safety Board, you can see how an epoxy resin fire in a maintenance pipe, caused death by &lt;br /&gt;
smoke inhalation for the trapped workers inside. Epoxy resin will burn for a long time and generate a substantial amount of smoke.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1103</id>
		<title>Gelcoat Anchoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1103"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:20:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Conclusion */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a similar usage case to [[Anchoring_Cement_Application]], however, in this case, instead of using a dedicated anchoring product for this, we are simply using excess gelcoat. Polyester resin is a strong enough adhesive for small jobs, and in this scenario, the goal is to get pegboard on a concrete wall. Since this is a low weight, non structural application (i.e. the weight of pegboard with tools is minimal, and this is indoors), we can get away with using any leftover gelcoat or polyester resin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good use of leftover resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Items Needed==&lt;br /&gt;
* Extra Resin or Gelcoat&lt;br /&gt;
* Catalyst&lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing Cup&lt;br /&gt;
* Popsicle Stick&lt;br /&gt;
* Syringe&lt;br /&gt;
* Rags&lt;br /&gt;
* Acetone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this type of application, you will want to use a syringe that has an opening large enough to work with the relatively viscous gelcoat or resin. Using [[Catalyst_Measuring_Syringes]] might not work, as catalyst is thinner. You may try cutting a thinner syringe near the end with a pair of pliers. For a small job, it should suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this tutorial, we will assume you have already drilled the necessary holes in the wall. Also, we will assume you have the necessary threaded rod or bolts prepared (in this case, I cut 1/4&amp;quot; bolts with a bandsaw to make them usable).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Steps==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# When working with a syringe and resin, you will find that it tends to spill down the wall. You will make a bit of a mess. Therefore, start by putting some rags down on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
# Note that even with rags, this process will be messy, and likely the wall will get some resin on it. Acetone can be used to cleanup afterwards, but it's not perfect. You wouldn't want to do this on an important wall, without proper prep. That may involve covering off any areas you don't want to get resin on. Or, you might paint over the resin after. For this example, I am not concerned as much with the gelcoat as it is going to be covered up.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you are putting bolts on the wall, you probably want to cover them with tape to avoid getting resin in the threads (or you can use a wire wheel afterwards).&lt;br /&gt;
# Mix the resin with catalyst in the mixing cup.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the syringe to draw in some of the premixed resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Carefully inject the resin into the void in the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the bolt into the wall and resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the bolt properly, if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cleanup (May require painting of the wall for neatness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204307759edit .jpg | Use rags on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204228568edit .jpg | The resin may smear on the wall. Use acetone to clean up or prep by covering the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204422858edit .jpg | Improper Application of resin will have an air gap.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204420375edit .jpg | Proper Application of resin from a syringe will bond all areas.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Using a tap or die to get paint off the threads.webm | A die can be used to clean the threads off.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg | Some paint was required to clean the wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg |&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4 | A quick video showing some of the workflow.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg | Cleaned up wall with a shelf added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Conclusion==&lt;br /&gt;
You may notice there is already pegboard on the right side, but that is a different size pegboard than what will be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall, this was a good use of old resin, but without thickener, the resin runs out the syringe and down the wall. It's still a fun project to take up, and it shows that syringes can be used for resin as well as for catalyst. Here, you are 'injecting' resin into the wall, and then placing a bolt in. It makes me wonder if there is any advantage to having resin filled concrete blocks (it looks like online, that concrete is sometimes used to fill blocks, though you could use other materials such as resin (if non flammable)).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This project made more of a mess than I expected. I think if you added a thickener, you might have an easier time dealing with the resin. Though it may not be absolutely necessary. Also, you will need dedicated resin syringes (seperate from the catalyst ones) as resin is fairly thick as I mentioned before (i.e. the opening of the syringe must be adequate for the thicker resin).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Todo==&lt;br /&gt;
Some weight bearing tests should be done, out of curiousity (taking into consideration the leverage of the bolt).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The steel bar holding the shelf should be painted white to blend in with the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Application Notes]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1102</id>
		<title>Gelcoat Anchoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1102"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:19:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Todo */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a similar usage case to [[Anchoring_Cement_Application]], however, in this case, instead of using a dedicated anchoring product for this, we are simply using excess gelcoat. Polyester resin is a strong enough adhesive for small jobs, and in this scenario, the goal is to get pegboard on a concrete wall. Since this is a low weight, non structural application (i.e. the weight of pegboard with tools is minimal, and this is indoors), we can get away with using any leftover gelcoat or polyester resin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good use of leftover resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Items Needed==&lt;br /&gt;
* Extra Resin or Gelcoat&lt;br /&gt;
* Catalyst&lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing Cup&lt;br /&gt;
* Popsicle Stick&lt;br /&gt;
* Syringe&lt;br /&gt;
* Rags&lt;br /&gt;
* Acetone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this type of application, you will want to use a syringe that has an opening large enough to work with the relatively viscous gelcoat or resin. Using [[Catalyst_Measuring_Syringes]] might not work, as catalyst is thinner. You may try cutting a thinner syringe near the end with a pair of pliers. For a small job, it should suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this tutorial, we will assume you have already drilled the necessary holes in the wall. Also, we will assume you have the necessary threaded rod or bolts prepared (in this case, I cut 1/4&amp;quot; bolts with a bandsaw to make them usable).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Steps==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# When working with a syringe and resin, you will find that it tends to spill down the wall. You will make a bit of a mess. Therefore, start by putting some rags down on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
# Note that even with rags, this process will be messy, and likely the wall will get some resin on it. Acetone can be used to cleanup afterwards, but it's not perfect. You wouldn't want to do this on an important wall, without proper prep. That may involve covering off any areas you don't want to get resin on. Or, you might paint over the resin after. For this example, I am not concerned as much with the gelcoat as it is going to be covered up.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you are putting bolts on the wall, you probably want to cover them with tape to avoid getting resin in the threads (or you can use a wire wheel afterwards).&lt;br /&gt;
# Mix the resin with catalyst in the mixing cup.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the syringe to draw in some of the premixed resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Carefully inject the resin into the void in the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the bolt into the wall and resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the bolt properly, if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cleanup (May require painting of the wall for neatness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204307759edit .jpg | Use rags on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204228568edit .jpg | The resin may smear on the wall. Use acetone to clean up or prep by covering the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204422858edit .jpg | Improper Application of resin will have an air gap.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204420375edit .jpg | Proper Application of resin from a syringe will bond all areas.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Using a tap or die to get paint off the threads.webm | A die can be used to clean the threads off.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg | Some paint was required to clean the wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg |&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4 | A quick video showing some of the workflow.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg | Cleaned up wall with a shelf added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Conclusion==&lt;br /&gt;
You may notice there is already pegboard on the right side, but that is a different size pegboard than what will be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall, this was a good use of old resin, but without thickener, the resin runs out the syringe and down the wall. It's still a fun project to take up, and it shows that syringes can be used for resin as well as for catalyst. Here, you are 'injecting' resin into the wall, and then placing a bolt in. It makes me wonder if there is any advantage to having resin filled concrete blocks (it looks like online, that concrete is sometimes used to fill blocks, though you could use other materials such as resin (if non flammable)).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This project made more of a mess than I expected. I think if you added a thickener, you might have an easier time dealing with the resin. Though it may not be absolutely necessary. Also, you will need dedicated resin syringes (seperate from the catalyst ones) as resin is fairly thick as I mentioned before.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Todo==&lt;br /&gt;
Some weight bearing tests should be done, out of curiousity (taking into consideration the leverage of the bolt).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The steel bar holding the shelf should be painted white to blend in with the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Application Notes]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1101</id>
		<title>Gelcoat Anchoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1101"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:17:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Todo */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a similar usage case to [[Anchoring_Cement_Application]], however, in this case, instead of using a dedicated anchoring product for this, we are simply using excess gelcoat. Polyester resin is a strong enough adhesive for small jobs, and in this scenario, the goal is to get pegboard on a concrete wall. Since this is a low weight, non structural application (i.e. the weight of pegboard with tools is minimal, and this is indoors), we can get away with using any leftover gelcoat or polyester resin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good use of leftover resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Items Needed==&lt;br /&gt;
* Extra Resin or Gelcoat&lt;br /&gt;
* Catalyst&lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing Cup&lt;br /&gt;
* Popsicle Stick&lt;br /&gt;
* Syringe&lt;br /&gt;
* Rags&lt;br /&gt;
* Acetone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this type of application, you will want to use a syringe that has an opening large enough to work with the relatively viscous gelcoat or resin. Using [[Catalyst_Measuring_Syringes]] might not work, as catalyst is thinner. You may try cutting a thinner syringe near the end with a pair of pliers. For a small job, it should suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this tutorial, we will assume you have already drilled the necessary holes in the wall. Also, we will assume you have the necessary threaded rod or bolts prepared (in this case, I cut 1/4&amp;quot; bolts with a bandsaw to make them usable).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Steps==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# When working with a syringe and resin, you will find that it tends to spill down the wall. You will make a bit of a mess. Therefore, start by putting some rags down on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
# Note that even with rags, this process will be messy, and likely the wall will get some resin on it. Acetone can be used to cleanup afterwards, but it's not perfect. You wouldn't want to do this on an important wall, without proper prep. That may involve covering off any areas you don't want to get resin on. Or, you might paint over the resin after. For this example, I am not concerned as much with the gelcoat as it is going to be covered up.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you are putting bolts on the wall, you probably want to cover them with tape to avoid getting resin in the threads (or you can use a wire wheel afterwards).&lt;br /&gt;
# Mix the resin with catalyst in the mixing cup.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the syringe to draw in some of the premixed resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Carefully inject the resin into the void in the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the bolt into the wall and resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the bolt properly, if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cleanup (May require painting of the wall for neatness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204307759edit .jpg | Use rags on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204228568edit .jpg | The resin may smear on the wall. Use acetone to clean up or prep by covering the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204422858edit .jpg | Improper Application of resin will have an air gap.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204420375edit .jpg | Proper Application of resin from a syringe will bond all areas.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Using a tap or die to get paint off the threads.webm | A die can be used to clean the threads off.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg | Some paint was required to clean the wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg |&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4 | A quick video showing some of the workflow.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg | Cleaned up wall with a shelf added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Conclusion==&lt;br /&gt;
You may notice there is already pegboard on the right side, but that is a different size pegboard than what will be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall, this was a good use of old resin, but without thickener, the resin runs out the syringe and down the wall. It's still a fun project to take up, and it shows that syringes can be used for resin as well as for catalyst. Here, you are 'injecting' resin into the wall, and then placing a bolt in. It makes me wonder if there is any advantage to having resin filled concrete blocks (it looks like online, that concrete is sometimes used to fill blocks, though you could use other materials such as resin (if non flammable)).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This project made more of a mess than I expected. I think if you added a thickener, you might have an easier time dealing with the resin. Though it may not be absolutely necessary. Also, you will need dedicated resin syringes (seperate from the catalyst ones) as resin is fairly thick as I mentioned before.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Todo==&lt;br /&gt;
Some weight bearing tests should be done, out of curiousity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The steel bar holding the shelf should be painted white to blend in with the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Application Notes]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1100</id>
		<title>Gelcoat Anchoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1100"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:16:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a similar usage case to [[Anchoring_Cement_Application]], however, in this case, instead of using a dedicated anchoring product for this, we are simply using excess gelcoat. Polyester resin is a strong enough adhesive for small jobs, and in this scenario, the goal is to get pegboard on a concrete wall. Since this is a low weight, non structural application (i.e. the weight of pegboard with tools is minimal, and this is indoors), we can get away with using any leftover gelcoat or polyester resin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good use of leftover resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Items Needed==&lt;br /&gt;
* Extra Resin or Gelcoat&lt;br /&gt;
* Catalyst&lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing Cup&lt;br /&gt;
* Popsicle Stick&lt;br /&gt;
* Syringe&lt;br /&gt;
* Rags&lt;br /&gt;
* Acetone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this type of application, you will want to use a syringe that has an opening large enough to work with the relatively viscous gelcoat or resin. Using [[Catalyst_Measuring_Syringes]] might not work, as catalyst is thinner. You may try cutting a thinner syringe near the end with a pair of pliers. For a small job, it should suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this tutorial, we will assume you have already drilled the necessary holes in the wall. Also, we will assume you have the necessary threaded rod or bolts prepared (in this case, I cut 1/4&amp;quot; bolts with a bandsaw to make them usable).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Steps==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# When working with a syringe and resin, you will find that it tends to spill down the wall. You will make a bit of a mess. Therefore, start by putting some rags down on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
# Note that even with rags, this process will be messy, and likely the wall will get some resin on it. Acetone can be used to cleanup afterwards, but it's not perfect. You wouldn't want to do this on an important wall, without proper prep. That may involve covering off any areas you don't want to get resin on. Or, you might paint over the resin after. For this example, I am not concerned as much with the gelcoat as it is going to be covered up.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you are putting bolts on the wall, you probably want to cover them with tape to avoid getting resin in the threads (or you can use a wire wheel afterwards).&lt;br /&gt;
# Mix the resin with catalyst in the mixing cup.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the syringe to draw in some of the premixed resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Carefully inject the resin into the void in the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the bolt into the wall and resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the bolt properly, if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cleanup (May require painting of the wall for neatness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204307759edit .jpg | Use rags on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204228568edit .jpg | The resin may smear on the wall. Use acetone to clean up or prep by covering the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204422858edit .jpg | Improper Application of resin will have an air gap.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204420375edit .jpg | Proper Application of resin from a syringe will bond all areas.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Using a tap or die to get paint off the threads.webm | A die can be used to clean the threads off.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg | Some paint was required to clean the wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg |&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4 | A quick video showing some of the workflow.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg | Cleaned up wall with a shelf added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Conclusion==&lt;br /&gt;
You may notice there is already pegboard on the right side, but that is a different size pegboard than what will be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall, this was a good use of old resin, but without thickener, the resin runs out the syringe and down the wall. It's still a fun project to take up, and it shows that syringes can be used for resin as well as for catalyst. Here, you are 'injecting' resin into the wall, and then placing a bolt in. It makes me wonder if there is any advantage to having resin filled concrete blocks (it looks like online, that concrete is sometimes used to fill blocks, though you could use other materials such as resin (if non flammable)).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This project made more of a mess than I expected. I think if you added a thickener, you might have an easier time dealing with the resin. Though it may not be absolutely necessary. Also, you will need dedicated resin syringes (seperate from the catalyst ones) as resin is fairly thick as I mentioned before.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Todo==&lt;br /&gt;
Some weight bearing tests should be done, out of curiousity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Application Notes]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1099</id>
		<title>Gelcoat Anchoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1099"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:15:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Todo */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a similar usage case to [[Anchoring_Cement_Application]], however, in this case, instead of using a dedicated anchoring product for this, we are simply using excess gelcoat. Polyester resin is a strong enough adhesive for small jobs, and in this scenario, the goal is to get pegboard on a concrete wall. Since this is a low weight, non critical application (i.e. the weight of pegboard with tools is minimal, and this is indoors), we can get away with using any leftover gelcoat or polyester resin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good use of leftover resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Items Needed==&lt;br /&gt;
* Extra Resin or Gelcoat&lt;br /&gt;
* Catalyst&lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing Cup&lt;br /&gt;
* Popsicle Stick&lt;br /&gt;
* Syringe&lt;br /&gt;
* Rags&lt;br /&gt;
* Acetone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this type of application, you will want to use a syringe that has an opening large enough to work with the relatively viscous gelcoat or resin. Using [[Catalyst_Measuring_Syringes]] might not work, as catalyst is thinner. You may try cutting a thinner syringe near the end with a pair of pliers. For a small job, it should suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this tutorial, we will assume you have already drilled the necessary holes in the wall. Also, we will assume you have the necessary threaded rod or bolts prepared (in this case, I cut 1/4&amp;quot; bolts with a bandsaw to make them usable).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Steps==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# When working with a syringe and resin, you will find that it tends to spill down the wall. You will make a bit of a mess. Therefore, start by putting some rags down on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
# Note that even with rags, this process will be messy, and likely the wall will get some resin on it. Acetone can be used to cleanup afterwards, but it's not perfect. You wouldn't want to do this on an important wall, without proper prep. That may involve covering off any areas you don't want to get resin on. Or, you might paint over the resin after. For this example, I am not concerned as much with the gelcoat as it is going to be covered up.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you are putting bolts on the wall, you probably want to cover them with tape to avoid getting resin in the threads (or you can use a wire wheel afterwards).&lt;br /&gt;
# Mix the resin with catalyst in the mixing cup.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the syringe to draw in some of the premixed resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Carefully inject the resin into the void in the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the bolt into the wall and resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the bolt properly, if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cleanup (May require painting of the wall for neatness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204307759edit .jpg | Use rags on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204228568edit .jpg | The resin may smear on the wall. Use acetone to clean up or prep by covering the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204422858edit .jpg | Improper Application of resin will have an air gap.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204420375edit .jpg | Proper Application of resin from a syringe will bond all areas.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Using a tap or die to get paint off the threads.webm | A die can be used to clean the threads off.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg | Some paint was required to clean the wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg |&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4 | A quick video showing some of the workflow.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg | Cleaned up wall with a shelf added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Conclusion==&lt;br /&gt;
You may notice there is already pegboard on the right side, but that is a different size pegboard than what will be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall, this was a good use of old resin, but without thickener, the resin runs out the syringe and down the wall. It's still a fun project to take up, and it shows that syringes can be used for resin as well as for catalyst. Here, you are 'injecting' resin into the wall, and then placing a bolt in. It makes me wonder if there is any advantage to having resin filled concrete blocks (it looks like online, that concrete is sometimes used to fill blocks, though you could use other materials such as resin (if non flammable)).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This project made more of a mess than I expected. I think if you added a thickener, you might have an easier time dealing with the resin. Though it may not be absolutely necessary. Also, you will need dedicated resin syringes (seperate from the catalyst ones) as resin is fairly thick as I mentioned before.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Todo==&lt;br /&gt;
Some weight bearing tests should be done, out of curiousity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Application Notes]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1098</id>
		<title>Gelcoat Anchoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1098"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:14:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Steps */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a similar usage case to [[Anchoring_Cement_Application]], however, in this case, instead of using a dedicated anchoring product for this, we are simply using excess gelcoat. Polyester resin is a strong enough adhesive for small jobs, and in this scenario, the goal is to get pegboard on a concrete wall. Since this is a low weight, non critical application (i.e. the weight of pegboard with tools is minimal, and this is indoors), we can get away with using any leftover gelcoat or polyester resin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good use of leftover resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Items Needed==&lt;br /&gt;
* Extra Resin or Gelcoat&lt;br /&gt;
* Catalyst&lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing Cup&lt;br /&gt;
* Popsicle Stick&lt;br /&gt;
* Syringe&lt;br /&gt;
* Rags&lt;br /&gt;
* Acetone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this type of application, you will want to use a syringe that has an opening large enough to work with the relatively viscous gelcoat or resin. Using [[Catalyst_Measuring_Syringes]] might not work, as catalyst is thinner. You may try cutting a thinner syringe near the end with a pair of pliers. For a small job, it should suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this tutorial, we will assume you have already drilled the necessary holes in the wall. Also, we will assume you have the necessary threaded rod or bolts prepared (in this case, I cut 1/4&amp;quot; bolts with a bandsaw to make them usable).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Steps==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# When working with a syringe and resin, you will find that it tends to spill down the wall. You will make a bit of a mess. Therefore, start by putting some rags down on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
# Note that even with rags, this process will be messy, and likely the wall will get some resin on it. Acetone can be used to cleanup afterwards, but it's not perfect. You wouldn't want to do this on an important wall, without proper prep. That may involve covering off any areas you don't want to get resin on. Or, you might paint over the resin after. For this example, I am not concerned as much with the gelcoat as it is going to be covered up.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you are putting bolts on the wall, you probably want to cover them with tape to avoid getting resin in the threads (or you can use a wire wheel afterwards).&lt;br /&gt;
# Mix the resin with catalyst in the mixing cup.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the syringe to draw in some of the premixed resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Carefully inject the resin into the void in the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the bolt into the wall and resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the bolt properly, if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cleanup (May require painting of the wall for neatness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204307759edit .jpg | Use rags on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204228568edit .jpg | The resin may smear on the wall. Use acetone to clean up or prep by covering the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204422858edit .jpg | Improper Application of resin will have an air gap.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204420375edit .jpg | Proper Application of resin from a syringe will bond all areas.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Using a tap or die to get paint off the threads.webm | A die can be used to clean the threads off.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg | Some paint was required to clean the wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg |&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4 | A quick video showing some of the workflow.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg | Cleaned up wall with a shelf added.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Conclusion==&lt;br /&gt;
You may notice there is already pegboard on the right side, but that is a different size pegboard than what will be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall, this was a good use of old resin, but without thickener, the resin runs out the syringe and down the wall. It's still a fun project to take up, and it shows that syringes can be used for resin as well as for catalyst. Here, you are 'injecting' resin into the wall, and then placing a bolt in. It makes me wonder if there is any advantage to having resin filled concrete blocks (it looks like online, that concrete is sometimes used to fill blocks, though you could use other materials such as resin (if non flammable)).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This project made more of a mess than I expected. I think if you added a thickener, you might have an easier time dealing with the resin. Though it may not be absolutely necessary. Also, you will need dedicated resin syringes (seperate from the catalyst ones) as resin is fairly thick as I mentioned before.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Todo==&lt;br /&gt;
Some weight bearing tests should be done, out of curiousity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are videos along with these photos, that I will upload at a later date.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Application Notes]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1097</id>
		<title>Gelcoat Anchoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Gelcoat_Anchoring&amp;diff=1097"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:14:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Steps */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This is a similar usage case to [[Anchoring_Cement_Application]], however, in this case, instead of using a dedicated anchoring product for this, we are simply using excess gelcoat. Polyester resin is a strong enough adhesive for small jobs, and in this scenario, the goal is to get pegboard on a concrete wall. Since this is a low weight, non critical application (i.e. the weight of pegboard with tools is minimal, and this is indoors), we can get away with using any leftover gelcoat or polyester resin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good use of leftover resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Items Needed==&lt;br /&gt;
* Extra Resin or Gelcoat&lt;br /&gt;
* Catalyst&lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing Cup&lt;br /&gt;
* Popsicle Stick&lt;br /&gt;
* Syringe&lt;br /&gt;
* Rags&lt;br /&gt;
* Acetone&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this type of application, you will want to use a syringe that has an opening large enough to work with the relatively viscous gelcoat or resin. Using [[Catalyst_Measuring_Syringes]] might not work, as catalyst is thinner. You may try cutting a thinner syringe near the end with a pair of pliers. For a small job, it should suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this tutorial, we will assume you have already drilled the necessary holes in the wall. Also, we will assume you have the necessary threaded rod or bolts prepared (in this case, I cut 1/4&amp;quot; bolts with a bandsaw to make them usable).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Steps==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# When working with a syringe and resin, you will find that it tends to spill down the wall. You will make a bit of a mess. Therefore, start by putting some rags down on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
# Note that even with rags, this process will be messy, and likely the wall will get some resin on it. Acetone can be used to cleanup afterwards, but it's not perfect. You wouldn't want to do this on an important wall, without proper prep. That may involve covering off any areas you don't want to get resin on. Or, you might paint over the resin after. For this example, I am not concerned as much with the gelcoat as it is going to be covered up.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you are putting bolts on the wall, you probably want to cover them with tape to avoid getting resin in the threads (or you can use a wire wheel afterwards).&lt;br /&gt;
# Mix the resin with catalyst in the mixing cup.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the syringe to draw in some of the premixed resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Carefully inject the resin into the void in the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the bolt into the wall and resin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the bolt properly, if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cleanup (May require painting of the wall for neatness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204307759edit .jpg | Use rags on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204228568edit .jpg | The resin may smear on the wall. Use acetone to clean up or prep by covering the wall.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204422858edit .jpg | Improper Application of resin will have an air gap.&lt;br /&gt;
File:IMG 20260112 204420375edit .jpg | Proper Application of resin from a syringe will bond all areas.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Using a tap or die to get paint off the threads.webm | A die can be used to clean the threads off.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg | Some paint was required to clean the wall&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg |&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg | Cleaned up wall with a shelf added.&lt;br /&gt;
File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4 | A quick video showing some of the workflow.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Conclusion==&lt;br /&gt;
You may notice there is already pegboard on the right side, but that is a different size pegboard than what will be installed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall, this was a good use of old resin, but without thickener, the resin runs out the syringe and down the wall. It's still a fun project to take up, and it shows that syringes can be used for resin as well as for catalyst. Here, you are 'injecting' resin into the wall, and then placing a bolt in. It makes me wonder if there is any advantage to having resin filled concrete blocks (it looks like online, that concrete is sometimes used to fill blocks, though you could use other materials such as resin (if non flammable)).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This project made more of a mess than I expected. I think if you added a thickener, you might have an easier time dealing with the resin. Though it may not be absolutely necessary. Also, you will need dedicated resin syringes (seperate from the catalyst ones) as resin is fairly thick as I mentioned before.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Todo==&lt;br /&gt;
Some weight bearing tests should be done, out of curiousity.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are videos along with these photos, that I will upload at a later date.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Application Notes]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_movie.mp4&amp;diff=1096</id>
		<title>File:Shipping office reno movie.mp4</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_movie.mp4&amp;diff=1096"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:12:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_3.jpg&amp;diff=1095</id>
		<title>File:Shipping office reno 3.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_3.jpg&amp;diff=1095"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:12:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_2.jpg&amp;diff=1094</id>
		<title>File:Shipping office reno 2.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_2.jpg&amp;diff=1094"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:11:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_1.jpg&amp;diff=1093</id>
		<title>File:Shipping office reno 1.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=File:Shipping_office_reno_1.jpg&amp;diff=1093"/>
		<updated>2026-09-06T08:11:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Fiberglass&amp;diff=1092</id>
		<title>Fiberglass</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Fiberglass&amp;diff=1092"/>
		<updated>2026-08-21T14:23:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Tips */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We currently sell fiberglass by the roll. Our stock varies, so please ask us what we have available at a given time. We are likely to have the basics (matte, woven roving, and cloth tape).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Tips/Techniques==&lt;br /&gt;
===The resin should fully soak through the fiberglass===&lt;br /&gt;
A mistake that can be made when using fiberglass is to not get the resin through all of the fibers. What happens then is that the surface glass gets coated in resin, yet the under layers of glass threads remain unsoaked. This will result in a weaker end product, and is to be avoided. To see a microscope picture of this mistake in practice, please see [[SEM_Images#3210_LVP]]&lt;br /&gt;
===Threading Fiberglass by Hand, and Adding Wire===&lt;br /&gt;
Consider that if you are to thread fiberglass by hand, you can weave in some type of conductive thread or magnet wire and then have glass that has some use in a circuit. Alternatively, you could patch or sew in some wire to existing laminate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Images==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll2.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll3.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll4.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll5.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll6.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll7.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass roll8.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
File:Fiberglass matte2.jpg|200px|thumb||&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Products]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1091</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1091"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:17:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Cardboard */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
* If cardboard is feasible to work with, then most any paper stock will likely work as well.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap box cardboard does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1090</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1090"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:16:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Foam */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
* If cardboard is feasible to work with, then most any paper stock will likely work as well.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1089</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1089"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:15:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Cardboard */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
* If cardboard is feasible to work with, then most any paper stock will likely work as well.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1088</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1088"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:13:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Plywood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1087</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1087"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:13:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Foam */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1086</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1086"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:13:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Plywood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1085</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1085"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:13:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Balsa Wood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1084</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1084"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:13:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Cardboard */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1083</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1083"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:12:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Cardboard */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1082</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1082"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:12:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Advantages */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost for Small Projects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1081</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1081"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:11:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Balsa Wood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show (when wood carving or whittling by hand, it is too easy to cut yourself). Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1080</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1080"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:10:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Balsa Wood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/), and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1079</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1079"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:09:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Foam */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Good material to work with CNC&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Can cut with resistance wire.&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Many different options. You have to choose a few to work with, otherwise it will be too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possibly not as easy to work, with contemporary tools. For example, polystyrene can crumble. (This will depend upon the foam).&lt;br /&gt;
* Exothermic resins can melt foam. In this case, cures must be done slowly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1078</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1078"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:04:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Advantages */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
* Feasible to work, with any contemporary tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1077</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1077"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:03:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Plywood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Available at Retail Hardware Stores and Lumberyards&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heavier than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
* Slightly more difficult to work with than Balsa&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1076</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1076"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:02:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Balsa Wood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Reasonably Low Cost&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Flammable, as all woods are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1075</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1075"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T06:00:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Cardboard */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Advantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
====Disadvantages====&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1074</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1074"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:59:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Cardboard */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Advantages===&lt;br /&gt;
* Lightweight&lt;br /&gt;
* Easy to Work With&lt;br /&gt;
* Cheap and readily available&lt;br /&gt;
===Disadvantages===&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not hold form well&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1073</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1073"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:58:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This page will not cover molding type materials such as silicone, or another piece of glass with mold release applied.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Other Materials==&lt;br /&gt;
As with bonding to other materials, typically you will want to:&lt;br /&gt;
* Prep the surface properly with sanding or grinding.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test a small area first&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We occasionally test by bonding to parts of scrap metal we have hanging around the shop, but I will make an effort to do some more formal tests and write something here.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1072</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1072"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:54:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Plywood==&lt;br /&gt;
Plywood is a ubiquitous material for most any construction project. I have not worked with plywood too much as I work on a small scale, but I might use one of the thinner options.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1071</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1071"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:52:59Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Foam */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits. You can also dissolve foam with [[Foam_Cutter#Citrus_Oil_Dissolving_Polystyrene_Foam|citrus based products]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1070</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1070"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:52:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Foam */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available option here, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foam is a good option for preparing the substrate with CNC, being lightweight, and easy on the CNC cutting mills and drill bits.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1069</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1069"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:50:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Foam */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available foam, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter |here]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1068</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1068"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:50:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Foam */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. Foam is its own industry, and there are companies that specialize in this or that type of foam. I have written a bit about working with the most commonly available foam, Polystrene or Styrofoam [[Foam_Cutter here]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1067</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1067"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:47:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Cardboard */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. Cardboard is easy to find, and work with, requiring nothing more than a razor blade to shape (with maybe some kind of adhesive). However, cardboard is a flimsy material, and you may have to purchase higher grade cardboard if you want to get better results, rather than working with leftover box material. If you start out with a slightly crooked model, you will have difficulty fixing it down the line, as opposed to working with something like plywood or balsa, where it is rigid enough that it easily keeps form.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. From something as simple as polystrene (styrofoam), to&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1066</id>
		<title>Substrates for Resin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://wiki.advancecoatings.com/index.php?title=Substrates_for_Resin&amp;diff=1066"/>
		<updated>2026-08-11T05:45:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Advance: /* Balsa Wood */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;There are a variety of substrates that you might use to bond resin and glass to. In this page we will focus on polyester resin, and fiberglass, though it's possible to use other resins such as epoxy, urethane, and also other laminates such as carbon fiber or kevlar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Cardboard==&lt;br /&gt;
This is the simplest material to start with if you are new to glassing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Balsa Wood==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a common crafting material. It is used in high schools for creating truss bridges (See: https://www.pitsco.com/ and https://go.pitsco.com/pitsco-bridge-book) where thin balsa rod will be the form factor, in Model Airplane kits (See: https://www.guillow.com/),and also in larger sheets for traditional wood working tasks. It can be used in wood carving as it is reasonably easy to cut (Wood carving books are common and you will find them at libraries, thrift stores, or used book stores. Two I have come across but not read are Classic Whittling by Rick Wiebe and the Beginner's Handbook of Wood Carving by Beiderman and Johnson. I would not recommend any carving without a vice, contrary to what the books show. Balsa seems to be an excellent material for small models, as well as suitable for larger parts. Though it is flammable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foam==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many kinds of foam available. From something as simple as polystrene (styrofoam), to&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Advance</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>