Aliphatic Urethane for Hardwood Floor Refinishing - Revision history

Advance: /* Hindsight 2023 */

2026-02-27T10:28:22Z

Hindsight 2023

Advance at 10:18, 27 February 2026

2026-02-27T10:18:49Z

Advance: /* Hindsight 2023 */

2024-10-16T00:10:31Z

Hindsight 2023

Advance: /* Hindsight 2023 */

2024-01-22T16:40:26Z

Hindsight 2023

Advance: /* Hindsight 2023 */

2024-01-22T16:39:58Z

Hindsight 2023

Advance: /* Ending */

2023-08-05T02:53:40Z

Ending

Advance: /* Last Coat Prep */

2020-05-27T06:27:38Z

Last Coat Prep

Advance at 06:25, 27 May 2020

2020-05-27T06:25:51Z

Advance at 08:29, 28 April 2020

2020-04-28T08:29:05Z

Advance: /* Last Coat Prep */

2020-04-28T08:22:12Z

Last Coat Prep

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:28, 27 February 2026
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−	[[Category:Application ~~notes~~]]	+	[[Category:Application Notes]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:18, 27 February 2026
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	==Hindsight 2023==		==Hindsight 2023==
	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up (A relevant resource here is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_transmittance). What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. What should be done, is the hardwood floor should be completely pulled up, and proper floor insulation should be put in, then the hardwood should be put back down. This is not a trivial project. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.		While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up (A relevant resource here is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_transmittance). What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. What should be done, is the hardwood floor should be completely pulled up, and proper floor insulation should be put in, then the hardwood should be put back down. This is not a trivial project. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.
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		+	[[Category:Application notes]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:10, 16 October 2024
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	==Hindsight 2023==		==Hindsight 2023==
−	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up. What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. What should be done, is the hardwood floor should be completely pulled up, and proper floor insulation should be put in, then the hardwood should be put back down. This is not a trivial project. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.	+	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up (A relevant resource here is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_transmittance). What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. What should be done, is the hardwood floor should be completely pulled up, and proper floor insulation should be put in, then the hardwood should be put back down. This is not a trivial project. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:40, 22 January 2024
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	==Hindsight 2023==		==Hindsight 2023==
−	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up. What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. What should be done, is the hardwood floor should be completely pulled up, and proper floor insulation should be put in. This is not a trivial project. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.	+	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up. What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. What should be done, is the hardwood floor should be completely pulled up, and proper floor insulation should be put in, then the hardwood should be put back down. This is not a trivial project. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:39, 22 January 2024
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	==Hindsight 2023==		==Hindsight 2023==
−	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up. What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. ~~I might consider putting some thermal layer (floor foam maybe) over~~ the hardwood, and ~~then some tiling over that, such as what they use~~ in ~~institutional or grocery store (some plastic tiles)~~. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.	+	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up. What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. What should be done, is the hardwood floor should be completely pulled up, and proper floor insulation should be put in. This is not a trivial project. In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:53, 5 August 2023
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	File:GlossyUrethaneOnHardwoodFloor_C.jpg\| Another view.		File:GlossyUrethaneOnHardwoodFloor_C.jpg\| Another view.
	</gallery>		</gallery>
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		+	==Hindsight 2023==
		+	While we have a much better room than before, we have more of a drafty room. It's apparent now the rugs were put in because the foundation is some feet below the hardwood (raised floor), and because of cracks around the edges of the room, it gets cold in the winter. Though this is easily fixed by opening the door from the rest of the office, where the heat blows in and heats it up. What is the solution: would I put rugs back in? No, I would not. I avoid rugs whenever possible. They collect dust. I also would not reinstall the wood paneling walls, or the drop ceiling. I might consider putting some thermal layer (floor foam maybe) over the hardwood, and then some tiling over that, such as what they use in institutional or grocery store (some plastic tiles). In any case, it wasn't a flawless victory with the renovation, but it was an improvement. Note that this is only an issue in the dead of winter, when the room has been closed up. The rest of the year, the room is comfortable.

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 At this point, we removed the walls and ceilings. We rewired the electrical outlets opting for conduit, and replaced the windows, along with a fresh paint job on the wall. After this work was done, it was time to return to the floor, for a final coat.
-The floor was rough. It had two coats, but there were a lot of specks here and there on top of the urethane finish. I used a floor orbital sander rented from a local hardware store with 80 grit, and after a couple hours had the large spots and specks on the surface of the urethane sanded off (the goal is to sand smooth the surface of the urethane not go down to the wood). Note that in order to get a smooth finish, '''sanding before the final coat is recommended'''.
+The floor was rough. It had two coats, but there were a lot of specks here and there on top of the urethane finish. I used a floor orbital sander rented from a local hardware store with 80 grit, and after a couple hours had the large spots and specks on the surface of the urethane sanded off (the goal is to sand smooth the surface of the urethane not go down to the wood). Note that in order to get a smooth finish, '''sanding before the final coat is required'''.
 <gallery mode="traditional">

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:25, 27 May 2020
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	Of interest to us here is the floor refinishing. This refinishing was done with the help of a Urethane we resell. This document will go into detail the full hardwood floor refinishing process in as much detail as possible (after the fact). This info will be useful to those interested in Refinishing, as well as those interested in general Urethane advice with hardwood. Note that this page is meant as an adjunct to the [[Aliphatic Urethane]] page. It is recommended to be familiar with that page as well.		Of interest to us here is the floor refinishing. This refinishing was done with the help of a Urethane we resell. This document will go into detail the full hardwood floor refinishing process in as much detail as possible (after the fact). This info will be useful to those interested in Refinishing, as well as those interested in general Urethane advice with hardwood. Note that this page is meant as an adjunct to the [[Aliphatic Urethane]] page. It is recommended to be familiar with that page as well.
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−	~~'''Downloadable PDF Version here:''' [[File:Refinishing a Hardwood Floor With Aliphatic Urethane Wiki vers.pdf]]~~

	==Overview==		==Overview==

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 '''Downloadable PDF Version here:''' [[File:Refinishing a Hardwood Floor With Aliphatic Urethane Wiki vers.pdf]]
 ==Preparation==
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 With nearly all the tar removed, it was determined to sand the floor<ref>A note should be made on the importance of removing as much tar as possible. Can you sand the tar off? Yes, however the tar will stick to the sanding paper, and it will not easily come off. It is best to remove all tar paper before sanding to avoid this scenario. The white film of glue is not an issue for the sanding paper.</ref>. Two sanders were used on this floor, both rentals from the local Home Depot hardware store. We used the orbital sander, and the drum sander. The orbital was not effective. The drum sander was required. One step we missed here was that we didn't finish with a high enough grit on the drum sander. This was made up for later in the urethane stage, but if you are to sand a floor with a drum sander, we recommend starting low, and ending with the highest grit for drum sanders available (which is 100 for the rental we used). <ref>I would recommend starting with 20 or 30 if you have tough wood like ours was. You want to get underneath the finish without too much of a fight. Remember the adage: good tools do work, bad tools make work. With sanding, this is important. If you aren't making progress as you sand, you need more power.</ref> A result of the sanding ended up looking something like this:
-[[File:OrbitalSanderOnHardwoodResults.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The orbital sander did not fully sand the floor.]]
+[[File:OrbitalSanderOnHardwoodResults.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The orbital sander did not fully sand down the wood. While it works well for finish, it is ineffective for removing cellulose.]]
 [[File:SandingHardwoodFloor.jpg|300px|thumb|right|The drum sander was able to do the work.]]

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 <gallery mode="traditional">
-File:UrethaneFloorAfterSanding.jpg|The floor with two coats of urethane, and then sanded with a handheld orbital. The white blemishes, are from sanding. A floor orbital would've been easier, but even with a handheld, it's no more than two hours of work (60 grit).
+File:UrethaneFloorAfterSanding.jpg|The floor with two coats of urethane, and then sanded with a handheld orbital. The white blemishes, are from sanding. A floor orbital was also used later, and does the same job in 1/4th the time.
 File:DSCN2852.JPG|A spot was missed on the third coat, so some touch up with a brush was done the next day.
 </gallery>